DESIGN PLANNING:- In this step, artisans sketch intricate motifs and patterns on graph paper. Each square on the graph represents a yarn intersection on the fabric. This design acts as a blueprint for where to tie and dye the yarns, ensuring the final woven pattern matches the intended look.
YARN PREPARATION:- Raw silk or cotton yarns are degummed to remove natural sericin or impurities, making them soft and dye-absorbent. After cleaning, the yarns are wound onto bobbins or spindles, preparing them for the tying and dyeing process.
WARP TIE & DYE:– Warp yarns are stretched and marked according to the design chart. Threads are tied tightly with waterproof material (like rubber or plastic thread) to resist dye in certain areas. The yarns are dyed in stages, often requiring multiple ties and dyes for complex patterns. This creates the base color design on the warp
WEFT TIE & DYE:- This step is similar to the warp dyeing but done on the weft yarns (horizontal threads). Marking, tying, and dyeing are done with precision. Double Ikat sarees require both warp and weft yarns to be pre-dyed to align perfectly. It takes high skill to match the design during weaving.
Rewinding (Alignment):- Once dyed, yarns are dried and carefully unwound. The artisan then realigns the yarns to ensure the pattern falls correctly. This step is critical to avoid design distortion. The yarn is then rewound onto the loom beam in correct sequence.
Loom Setup:- The dyed warp threads are mounted onto the loom carefully. Thread tension, sequence, and positioning are all adjusted manually. The artisan checks alignment repeatedly to match the planned design. This sets the base for the weaving process.
Weaving:- Weaving is done by interlacing dyed warp and weft yarns. The design appears as the threads are woven together, matching the tied-dyed patterns. This is done slowly and manually, especially for double Ikat sarees. Skilled weavers adjust every thread to maintain precision.
Finishing:- The woven saree is removed from the loom and thoroughly washed to remove excess dye. It is then dried, ironed, and sometimes starched for crispness. Final quality checks are done to inspect the design alignment and color finish. The saree is now ready for sale.